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Material guide

Drywall & plaster

What works on drywall and plaster: the right bit, cutting method, anchor, adhesive and sanding grit, plus how to keep the dust down.

A worker in safety glasses drives a screw into a drywall ceiling
Photo: Staff Sgt. Zachary Rufus, U.S. Air Force, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain

Quick facts

What it is
Drywall: a gypsum core between paper faces (ASTM C1396). Older plaster: hard coats over wood or metal lath.
Best cutting tool
Utility knife: score, snap, then cut the back paper
Panel screws
1-1/4 in Type W screws, up to 16 in apart on walls and 12 in on ceilings (USG, wood framing)
Heavy loads
Into a stud, or a heavy-duty toggle (1/2 in hole, walls 3/8 to 3-5/8 in thick)
Sanding grit
150-grit paper or 220-grit mesh on joint compound (USG)
Dust hazard
Joint compound dust can contain silica. NIOSH found sanders at up to 10 times the dust limit.

Drywall is a sheet of gypsum pressed between two paper faces. It's soft, cheap and easy to cut. Many older homes have plaster: hard coats troweled over wood or metal strips called lath.

Each one is tricky in its own way. Drywall is weak. A screw in plain drywall holds very little, so anything heavy needs a stud or an anchor. Plaster is hard and brittle. It can crack or let go of the lath when you drill or cut it.

Both walls hide things. Pipes and wires run behind them, often right where you want to drill. Cutting and sanding both make a lot of fine dust.

So start by finding out what you have. Tap the wall and drill a small test hole in a hidden spot. White powder and paper mean drywall. Hard, gritty dust and wood strips behind it mean plaster on lath.

Drill into drywall & plaster

Drywall drills easily with any sharp twist or brad-point bit at low speed. Plaster is harder: use a carbide-tipped masonry bit with hammer mode off, and light pressure. Check for pipes and wires first.

What to use: Twist bit for drywall; carbide masonry bit for plaster

Guides

Cut drywall & plaster

Score the face paper with a utility knife, snap the panel, then cut the back paper. Use a jab saw for outlet and pipe holes. Skip the circular saw: it makes a cloud of dust. For plaster, use an oscillating tool with a carbide-grit blade.

What to use: Utility knife and jab saw

Guides

Glue drywall & plaster

Panel adhesive can help hold drywall to studs, but USG still calls for screws or nails with it. Don't glue a hole shut. Patch it with joint compound and tape, or a patch, then sand.

What to use: Drywall screws plus panel adhesive; joint compound for repairs

Guides

  • Will construction adhesive hold on drywall? (coming)
  • Remove construction adhesive from drywall, concrete, and wood (coming)
  • Adhesive hooks vs anchors: what actually holds on tile and painted drywall (coming)

Screw or anchor into drywall & plaster

Drive into a stud whenever you can. Between studs, pick a hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight. Use toggles for heavy items. In old plaster, pre-drill and use a toggle long enough to clear the plaster and lath.

What to use: Stud first; heavy-duty toggle between studs

Guides

Sand or finish drywall & plaster

Sand joint compound, not the paper face. Use 150-grit paper or 220-grit mesh, or finer. A pole sander keeps dust farther from your face. A vacuum sander cut dust 80 to 97% in NIOSH tests.

What to use: Pole or vacuum sander, 150-grit or 220-grit mesh

Guides

  • Sand drywall with almost no dust (coming)
  • Sandpaper grit chart: which grit for which job (coming)