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Material guide

Resin & epoxy

What works on cured epoxy and resin: when it's ready to drill, how to cut and sand it, how to make new epoxy stick, and how to handle the dust.

A two-part epoxy syringe beside a puddle of mixed epoxy and strips of pine
Photo: Simon A. Eugster, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

Quick facts

Ready to work
Wait for a full cure. ArtResin lists 24 hours to hard and 72 hours to full. Check your resin's sheet.
Best drill bit
A small twist bit first, then step up in size. Keep holes away from the edge.
Glue to cured epoxy
Wash off amine blush with water, then sand glossy spots with 80-grit
Sanding grits
80 to 120 to scuff between coats. 320, 600, then 1500 wet for a smooth matte finish.
Dust
Dust from partly cured epoxy raises your risk of an allergy. Wear an N95 mask.
Skin
Wear gloves with uncured resin. Stop work if a rash starts.

Epoxy resin starts as two liquids, a resin and a hardener. Mix them and they react and turn into a hard plastic. Crafters pour it into molds and over art. Woodworkers fill gaps and coat tabletops with it. Boat builders glue and seal with it.

Most problems come from timing. Resin goes from liquid to gel to rubbery to hard, and it keeps getting harder for days. Drill or sand too soon and it smears, tears or gums the tool. The dust from partly cured resin is also more likely to give you a skin allergy.

Once it's fully cured, epoxy is easy to work. It drills, cuts and sands like a hard plastic. Go slow so it doesn't heat up, and keep holes away from thin edges, where it chips.

To add more resin later, prep the old surface first. A waxy film called amine blush can form on top as it cures. Wash it off, then sand, and the new coat will bond.

Drill into resin & epoxy

Cured resin drills well, but wait for the full cure. Start with a small bit and drill all the way through, then step up to the size you want. Stay away from the edge and wear a dust mask. For tiny holes, a pin vise works.

What to use: Small twist bits + pin vise

Guides

Cut resin & epoxy

Once fully cured, resin cuts like a hard plastic. Use a fine-tooth saw, scroll saw or band saw, and clamp the piece. Feed slowly so the blade doesn't heat up and gum. Sand the cut edge after.

What to use: Fine-tooth blade + clamps

Guides

  • Cut cured epoxy and resin castings (coming)

Glue resin & epoxy

New epoxy sticks to cured epoxy if you prep it. Wash the surface with clean water and an abrasive pad to remove amine blush, a waxy film. Let it dry, then sand glossy spots with 80-grit. If the old coat is still tacky, you can pour over it without sanding.

What to use: Abrasive pad, water, 80-grit paper

Guides

  • Will new epoxy stick to cured epoxy? (coming)
  • Epoxy still sticky after 24 hours: causes and fixes (coming)
  • How long does epoxy take to dry (and why it stays tacky) (coming)
  • Minimum temperature for epoxy and glue to cure (coming)
  • Remove dried epoxy from tools, floors, and skin (coming)

Screw or anchor into resin & epoxy

For a hanger or jump ring, mold the hole in before you pour. In a cured piece, drill a hole and glue the hardware in with epoxy, so the load spreads. Keep holes well away from edges, where resin chips.

What to use: Mold-in hole or epoxy-set hardware

Sand or finish resin & epoxy

Scuff between coats with 80 to 120 grit. For a smooth matte finish, wet sand with 320, then 600, then 1500 grit. Move up only when the scratches are gone. Bring back the gloss with a thin coat of resin or a polishing compound.

What to use: Wet-or-dry paper + polishing compound

Guides

  • Sand and polish epoxy resin (wet-grit sequence) (coming)
  • Sandpaper grit chart: which grit for which job (coming)